Whether fast or slow, mastering your shutter speed can produce some stunning effects

Shutter speed refers to the length of exposure that your camera’s sensor has to the available light. A fast shutter speed - 1/2000sec for instance – is useful for freezing motion, shooting portraits or landscapes in bright light. A slow shutter speed – 1sec or above – is ideal for low light situations, static subjects or when you want to achieve creative effects. Shutter speed works in conjunction with aperture and ISO, to ensure a good exposure in images.

Knowing how and when to use shutter speeds can ensure you take better images, it can also mean that you can push your creative boundaries and experiment.

Tossing the Camera -  where you open up the shutter for multiple seconds, then throw or rotate the camera - is just one technique which is perfect for photographers wanting to get creative with shutter speeds.

1. Eye contact is important in portraits and in wildlife, it allows the viewer to feel connected to the subject and gives a focal point for the image

2, Natural habitat – when photographing wildlife try to include some sense of environment to add context to your scene

3. Depth – the fact that the foreground is in focus and the background is thrown out of focus helps keep the viewers attention with the subject and away from any distracting elements

GEAR GUIDE

1 Tripod

Essential if you’re shooting long exposures as any camera shake will cause blur

2 Remote shutter release

Depressing the shutter can cause movement so remove this worry by investing in a remote

3 Strong strap

If you want to try Tossing the Camera, secure it to a camera strap and gently swing it

*Please note, tossing cameras is undertaken at photographers’ own risk

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If, however, you’re an artist documenting your projects and promote yourself as an interesting, proactive person, then it probably wouldn’t do to have a sanitised photo of a paintbrush alongside you in a suit on your blog. It’s that simple.

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Take one subject with three different lenses

It can quickly become confusing when trying to work out which lens and focal length will best suit you and your camera. It is important to first establish the genre and style of photography you will be working within so that you can make the best decision for the finest results. Zoom and fixed focus (Prime) lenses vary on quality and can have a huge impact on your final images. We will be taking a quick look at the varying results different focal lengths can have on a portrait image, guiding you through making the most of your lens and some direction on techniques.

1. Always focus on the subjects eyes, it is where the viewer will naturally be drawn to first.

2. Composition is key, for a good headshot always try to balance the frame by including the models shoulders.

3. This portrait was shot using a medium telephoto lens, choosing the right equipment makes all the difference.

Three Step Guide

STEP 1

Wide-angle lens (18mm)

Using a wide-angle lens for portraiture does not tend to be a conventional choice, with distortion to facial features it can have an unflattering fishbowl effect when used face on. However the wide-angle lens can open up a range of unusual portrait possibilities, changing your angle to look up at your model can create interesting compositions and perspectives.

STEP 2

Medium Telephoto lens (50mm)

A medium telephoto lens is considered to be the best suited for straight portraiture. This lens gives a more balanced perspective and creates a closer visual representation of the model; commonly used for headshots it helps to avoid any distortion of features and creates flattering results.  

STEP 3

Telephoto lens (135mm)

A Telephoto lens tends to compress facial features and although not as unflattering as a wide-angle lens it can make the model appear rather flat. You will also need more space to work when using a telephoto lens to enable you to fit more in the frame.

GEAR GUIDE

21-35mm – A Wide-angle lens - Landscapes

35-70mm – Straight lens – Street and documentary

70-135mm – A Medium Telephoto lens - Portraiture

135-300+mm – Telephoto/Macro lens - Sports and Wildlife

Zoom lens - Best for changing image composition and perspective easily.

Fixed Focus lens – Sharper, better quality lens that is lighter in weight and lower in cost.

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If your camera has a movie mode you can capture the world in a whole new way…

[INTRO TEXT] 100 words

In the past few years, we’ve increasingly come to expect some form of video mode to be featured on our compact cameras. Low resolution video files became a must-have for these lower end cameras, but when DSLRs and CSC cameras began to follow suit, things started to get exciting.

Not restricted by sensor sizes and lens issues, these more advanced models featured HD movie modes of 720p or 1080p, giving photographers practically unlimited creativity. The benefit of shooting video on an interchangeable lens system camera are the depth of field captured by the optics, the wide angle and the quality overall.

For pro photographers, the added bonus of having stills and video in one device means being able to offer a complete package – the frozen stills and the moving memories as one. For the amateur, these video capable cameras are easy to use, lower cost than two separate units, and make video making more accessible than ever before.

Subjects to think about:

1. Landscapes – clouds rolling across the horizon, boasts swaying in the tide and wildlife moving through the scene might seem serene but the end result will be visually appealing

2, Weddings – compliment your wedding stills with videos of the key moments like speeches, first dance and the throwing of the bouquet

3. Portraits – perfect for capturing special moments like your child’s first steps or being more creative and capturing a high speed sequence like blowing bubbles

Captions

For the landscape sequence

High speed action like this thermal water spring erupting are perfect subject matters for movie modes. Grabs still from them afterwards

For portrait sequence

Get creative with your movies and stage them like you might a photograph. Capturing a person’s personality, an animals wild behaviour etc

BOX OUT

Q&A

What’s the difference between Full HD and HD

Full HD (High Definition) has a higher pixel count of 1,920 x 1,080 pixels (1,080i/1,080p), as opposed to standard HD, which has 1,280 x 720 (720p). Those photographers who are looking to immerse themselves in video capture professionally should opt for the highest resolution and 1080p is preferred to 1080i. The ‘p’ stands for ‘progressive’ and is displayed as one full frame at a time. This is better than 1080i, which stands for ‘interlaced’ and means that whilst the device is full HD, it uses an interlaced video signal that splits each frame in two. The aspect ratio of all HD movies is 16:9, which is the same as widescreen televisions and hence when you are shooting HD video with a DSLR, you will be capturing a narrower aspect ratio than usual so the image will appear in a letterbox format

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Shoot one building in three different ways

Buildings contain all the necessary features for a good photograph. Lines, structure, angles, and texture can all be found right on your doorstep, literally. Next time you go for a walk ain your local area, make sure you’re armed with a camera and start taking notice of the architecture around you. A camera with a good telephoto lens or optical zoom will enable you to pick off interesting details, whereas a wide-angle will encompass the entire building. This project can be completed anywhere and to prove it, we set DCE designer Helen the challenge on her recent trip to Italy.

Same place, different time

As the sun moves the light on the building changes, so make sure you pay another visit

Step Back

A wide-angle view will lend context to your image

Gain perspective

Go inside or climb some stairs to vary your angle of view

Three step guide

STEP 1

Put it into Context

Set the scene for your structure by including some of the surrounding area in your shot.  By using a lens that is wider than 35mm, the perspective will be compressed and the subject magnified. Simply put – it will make the background elements appear closer to the foreground, therefore isolating the building.

STEP 2

Look closer

Older buildings have plenty of characterful details like gargoyles and ingrained patterns, or even doors and windows that catch your eye. Zoom in to fill the frame with these beautiful touches that would otherwise be lost in a wide-angle shot.

STEP 3

Explore Indoors

Think cathedrals, museums, and art galleries. Anywhere grand that permits photography will make a great architectural study that you can continue over the threshold. To combat low light conditions, use a high ISO setting and a tripod for longer exposures of half a second or more to let more light hit the sensor.

Q&A

Auto white balance isn’t accurate, what can I do?

Under the white balance menu, try selecting from the presets, i.e. if it’s an overcast day choose the ‘Cloudy’ setting. You can also set the white balance manually by using a photographer’s grey card, or white paper. Select Custom/Manual white balance, hold the paper in front of your subject, and take the picture. The camera will then do the calculations for you.v

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Venture out after dark for perfect low light shots

Setting yourself a low light challenge is the best way to becoming confident shooting in any situation. Weddings, landscapes at dusk, or even a child’s school play will all require the know-how to produce low light captures without the need for a flash. It will also help you to gauge how your camera performs at higher ISO settings because to capture you will need to increase the camera’s sensitivity to light. ISO is a measure of this and whilst ISO 100 is suitable for daylight conditions, you will need to venture into the higher settings (400+) for low light scenarios.

VIP Pass

Offer to photograph a band for a local publication for free so you stand more chance of getting a photographer’s pass

Three Step Guide

STEP 1

Concert Photography

Flash photography is not permitted at major concerts, so you will need to use your settings creatively. Set your ISO high to around 800 if your camera can handle it. Then use a wide aperture to let as much light in the camera as possible.

STEP 2

Composition

Conveying the energy of a performance can be tricky, as fast moving subjects are hard to capture. You can use motion blur to your advantage to emphasise the energy, such as the quick finger work on the guitar or someone thrashing the drums. Capture atmospheric crowd shots, too.

STEP 3

Post-Processing

Stay away from the contrast controls, as the stage lighting will probably be enough. If you find a lot of unattractive noise, then try using downloading a free trial of noise removal software such as Noiseware. Converting to black-and-white can also save an image by making the noise look like film grain.

Q&A

What is ‘noise’ and how can I prevent it?

Noise is the term for the grain that appears in photos when using high ISO settings. This increases the camera’s sensitivity to light and is a must when shooting in low light situations, as a high ISO will enable a quicker shutter speed. There is no way of preventing it, but shooting in RAW will offer the opportunity to clean up your shots later.

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Shoot three photographs within the home

For this project, the DCE girls took a trip home to prove that you don’t always need a high-end studio to achieve professional results. Houses are treasure troves of potential photographic subjects. Raid the cutlery drawer, grab an interesting ornament, or even something of sentimental value – any everyday object will do. Taking some close-up captures, lit with nothing more than a desk lamp and natural day light, will create alluringly abstract images. Read on to find out how to fashion your own reflector and softbox, and discover the ideal camera settings.  A perfect project for rainy day photography.

Studio Secrets

Greaseproof paper can double as a homemade diffuser for a professional finish

Subject Matter

Monochrome can enhance an image by giving it a classic finish

Three Step Guide

STEP 1

Homemade Studio

Tape a piece of greaseproof paper to a window and place your subject in front. This will act as a diffuser, evenly distributing the light and lending a clean white background. For extra light, cover a piece of card in tin foil and position to reflect light onto the subject.

STEP 2

Light Source

Shine a desk lamp onto your subject to create atmospheric shadows, which look great when converted to black-and-white. For colour photography around the home, make sure you set the correct white balance, i.e. Tungsten for light bulbs. Shoot in Aperture Priority with a small f-number for an attractive shallow depth of field. 

STEP 3

Get Creative

Close-up photography, or ‘macro’, is great using household objects. These ornamental butterflies sitting on a bedroom mirror are a good example of the kind of abstract image you can produce. Reflective surfaces are a challenge to work with, though. Position yourself to the side of the subject to avoid capturing your reflection.

GEAR GUIDE

Tin Foil / Cardboard                 

Sellotape

Greaseproof paper

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Making the most of a great photo opportunity

Photographing a stranger can be great challenge, but working out the best way to shoot somebody you don’t know can sometimes prove difficult. A great starting point would be to determine what kind of image you want to achieve whether it be of a candid moment or a posed portrait.

Approaching a stranger to ask permission to take their photograph may feel like a daunting task, however, it’s a great way to gain some self-confidence and test your photographic skills under pressure. Alternatively, choosing to shoot candidly means you can discreetly capture the spontaneous moments without being as conspicuous.

Three step guide

STEP 1

Stay undetected

For candid street photography always try to stay undetected, using a smaller camera or carrying your DSLR by your side and ready to shoot at anytime will prevent too much attention being drawn to you. Charge your battery fully beforehand and never switch off your camera whilst shooting, that way you are always prepared.

STEP 2

Prepare your settings

Altering camera settings for the correct exposure before you shoot saves a great amount of time and avoids people having to wait around for you to get it right. Testing your settings in the location light before finding a suitable subject works well, leaving you only to adjust your focus at the right moment.

STEP 3

Keep Smiling

Staying relaxed and smiling will bestow confidence in others making them more willing to agree with having their photograph taken or feel relaxed about you just having done so. By remaining calm you will keep a clear head making you less prone to technical mistakes and more open to creative ideas.

TOP TIPS

Capturing a candid photograph often means you need to be prepared for some unexpected moments; an easy to use and inconspicuous camera will work best.

Placing your subject in the right location can give the viewer an insight into the type of person they are.

Always be respectful of others privacy if they do not want their picture taken or ask you to delete the ones you have, always oblige.

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Getting to grips with the basic steps of HDR

HDR (High Dynamic Range) is a technique that essentially creates one image from three, blended together for a tonal range that better resembles reality. With mixed opinions and debate on the rise in popularity of HDR it is easy to avoid giving it a go given all the bad examples out there.  Armed with the insight that less is more, this basic step-by-step guide will show you how to shoot three exposures and process your images to create your own HDR photograph. You can see for yourself the new creative possibilities this technique can offer.

Choosing the right location is essential to success with your first HDR image. Choose somewhere with lots of texture and varying contrast levels works well.

Make defined exposures ideally ranging, -2ev for underexposed, O for correct exposure and +2ev for over exposed.

Avoid using a moving subject, as the three exposures will fail to align correctly when being processed.

Three Step Guide

STEP 1

Upload your three images onto your desktop. Open Photoshop and go to File>Automate>Merge to HDR, using ‘Browse’ search for your images. Click ‘Automatically align source images’ and ‘OK’. A ‘Merge to HDR’ box will appear. You can adjust the image tone by sliding the White Point slider. Now click on ‘OK’.

STEP 2

You will need to convert your image to a usable 16-bit image, Image>Mode>16-bit/channel. In the ‘HDR Conversion’ box change the ‘Method’ to ‘Local Adaptation’, giving you more control when altering the tonal curve. Have a go at adjusting the diagonal line to alter the image contrast, when happy with the results click ‘OK’.

STEP 3

‘Right click’ on your layer and select ‘duplicate layer’, by working in the duplicated layer you wont be making any permanent adjustments to your original image. You can now make final alterations by using image>adjustments>Shadows/Highlights OR Hue/Saturation. Make sure you flatten the layers before saving the final image, ‘Right Click’ on top layer and ‘Flatten Image’.

TOP TIPS

Only your shutter speeds should determine each exposure, your aperture must remain fixed to avoid varying focus between each shot.

A tripod is essential to avoid movement between shots; this will ensure correct alignment when compressing the images.

Computer image software such as Photoshop CS2 or above is key to creating your HDR image. Extra plug-ins are available to download for varying HDR effects.

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Let your images tell a story

If a picture is worth a thousand words, think of how much you can say with a whole series of images. Set yourself a theme that will run throughout your pictures, something that will link them together. You could start by tackling the alphabet, searching for items that begin with each letter. Or, if you want to be even more creative, try photographing everyday objects that look like that letter. The pictures can be linked by a common colour, or show different sides to someone’s personality with a series of portraits. This project forces you to see photographs in everyday life.

An event, like a child’s birthday, is a fantastic excuse for a photo series. Focusing on the foreground objects will give an artsy look to your images

Step 1

Starting Point

Three is a good number for a series. It gives a beginning, middle and end, and looks effective displayed in a row. This example features a child, so we have chosen props that represent youth: balloons, bubbles and party poppers. Red, yellow and blue will appear in each image for cohesion.

Step 2

Set the scene

Select the correct white balance for the scene by calling up the menu and choosing the appropriate light source, i.e. ‘Tungsten’ for light bulbs and ‘Cloudy’ for outdoors. In Manual mode, use a wide aperture (low f-number) and a fast shutter speed like 1/250 so you can work handheld without camera shake.

Step 3

Get in Focus

To emphasise a certain element (in this case the props), manually focus on that particular object so the narrow aperture will throw everything else out of focus. If focusing automatically, zoom in to the object and focus by half de-pressing the shutter button, zoom out whilst keeping it de-pressed, then take the shot.

TOP TIPS

Tip 1

Child’s Play

Keep children amused with fun props. Show them the pictures on the back of your camera to keep them interested in the shoot, and talk to them so they feel relaxed.

Tip 2

Story Telling

Try and tell a story with your photo series. You could show an event, such as a wedding or a Birthday party.

Tip 3

Showing Off

Consider displaying your work in a photo book. These are produced as professionally bound books, which you can order online. It would make a thoughtful gift.

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