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The magic of monochrome

Master the art of one of the most popular mediums of photography over the past two centuries

For beginners, enthusiasts and professionals the black and white medium has been one of the most popular forms of photography over the last 170 years. Its effective and flattering results mean an average image can be instantly transformed into a work of art. The simplicity and uncluttered look without the distraction of colour forces the viewer to recognise the form and structure of the subject. Whether you want to shoot landscape, portraits or take some abstract images then follow this simple guide and you too can shoot like a pro.

Divided in three parts this month’s feature covers all aspects of the medium from a basic ISO guide to understanding the importance of shape and composition. Select appropriate subject matter and learn to visualise in contrast and tone to achieve the best possible results.

Black and white landscapes - Get outdoors whatever the weather

Black and white landscape photography is effective any time of year and results will vary depending on the approach taken. It is worth knowing the basic principles of ISO, aperture and shutter speed as changing these elements will produce different effects.

Shooting on an overcast day produces fine detail, as light is dispersed evenly where as shooting on a sunny day produces high contrast in the shadows and highlights. Metering scenes is where most photographers struggle, as the difference between the two exposures (highlights and shadows) is tricky to get accurate. If possible shoot in RAW format and bracket expose either side of the reading as results can be corrected much easier postproduction.

Bracket exposing is where you take a shot either side of the average reading to ensure you have exposed the highlights and shadows. For example if you have the settings on ISO 100, F.11, 1/125 sec you should take a shot on this setting then ISO 100, F.11, 1/60 sec and then ISO 100, F.11, 1/250 sec. Alternatively most cameras have exposure value settings and can be increased and decreased by 1-3 stops.  For this you need to use a tripod.

Contrast and Tone - Visualise in black and white

The hardest part of black and white photography is knowing what works without colour. Often a scene that looks great in colour can look washed out when changed and vice versa. Contrast, tone and textures are key components to be aware of and here are a few tips to get you started. 
 

Texture - Look for textures in the landscape. This is what will produce contrasts and tones, for example a field with flowers. For high detailed imagery set your aperture to a narrow depth of field eg F.22 and ISO 100 as this setting provides plenty of detail. If you are photographing in dark conditions you may need a tripod. 

Avoid block colours - When it comes to landscape photography then avoid blue sky, as it will become a big block of grey and look very dull. Instead shoot when the sky has texture in the clouds and look out for are sunrays filtering through or a stormy sky as both enhance the atmosphere. 

Shadows and highlights - Use shadows to your advantage. In high contrast lighting shadows will play a key role in your image. In some circumstances make the most of the extreme range between the two, as it will create an abstract look. Remember to look for shapes and carefully consider composition when shooting in this style. 

The zone system - Learn this old technique and start visualising in black and white.

The zone system is a black and white exposure technique invented by Ansel Adams and Fred Archer in 1939. Originally the method was put in place to be used with the film medium however it is still useful practice for learning how to visualise in monochrome.

If you start with zone V as this represents the mid tone greys in the image i.e. the flat greys. You need to think about what area of your image will appear like this then take a meter reading. Each zone either side represents one f-stop so if you want your shadow value to be dark but still hold detail (zone III) then decrease the exposure by two f-stops. 

This technique is advanced however for beginners it is something to be aware of even if it is only to start thinking about colours, shadows as zones. To progress in this medium becoming aware of different exposure values for shadows and highlights is the first step.

ISO guide - From detail to grain learn how to use ISO to your advantage

ISO (International Standards Organisation) equates to the speed of how much charge the sensor needs to produce an image. If there is more light filtering through to the sensor then it will have more charge so you can afford to use a lower ISO number e.g. 100. The less charge going through the ISO means detail will remain finer. If you are shooting at night then you are going to need more charge from the sensor to produce an image as there is less surrounding light. You need to set your ISO at a high number e.g. ISO 6400. The quality at this level is not so good and will produce something called noise. ISO values should only be increased to the minimum requirement possible in order to capture the best quality image. 

The ISO is all relative to the aperture and shutter speed and these elements work in conjunction with each other to balance the amount of light. To set the ISO most cameras work with a menu system and it is usually as simple of selecting the one you need.

In colour photography than noise can ruin an image however in black and white photography a higher ISO can produce a grainy looking effect that can be used to your advantage.

ISO 100 - Detail remains sharp at this level with no noise.

ISO 400- Setting the ISO at 400 is ideal when there is less light and you have no tripod.

ISO 1600 - You would use ISO 1600 at night with a tripod or at dusk with out one. 

ISO 6400- This is a good example illustrating how noise/grain can affect an image. 
 

Black and white portrait photography

Subject matter

People with lots of character make excellent subject matter so use this to your advantage.

Older people are full of character. For this type of shot it is critical to make sure you have a crisp focus. Use the manual focus if the auto focus on your camera does not work quickly as for many people having a camera close up to their face can feel uncomfortable. Keep the depth of field over aperture F.8 to ensure detail remains high and it will further emphasise the lines in the face.

Babies and young children when photographed in the monochrome medium make fantastic subject matter however remember that your time is limited. You will get the best shots at the beginning of the session as half and hour later their attention is elsewhere. It is often worth having a couple of sessions to ensure you capture the right moment. 

Documentary photography- From film to digital photography the traditional black and white documentary image makes a statement. Try to capture a decisive moment that informs the viewer of something happening. Street performers make ideal subject matter as this image illustrates. Don’t be afraid to push your way to the front to get the shot or if you have a good zoom lens then this can come in handy.  

Close up - Make an intense image and move in close to the face. Make sure the model gazes directly into the lens and to enhance the shot apply makeup to frame the eye. In postproduction use the dodge tool to boost the whites and the burn tool to darken the pupil. 

Other body parts - Hands and feet (especially babies) are great features to photograph. Juxtapose an older hand with a young hand as this emphasises the difference in size and age and provides the image with an emotional context. Make sure the hands are sharply in focus and keep the aperture at F.8 to retain detail.

Lighting techniques

The best thing about shooting in black and white is you don’t have to worry about the white balance. This means any subject matter can be captured with a mixture of light sources with only highlights, shadows and composition to consider. For indoor photography then a tripod is a must have accessory if you are using your camera on anything less then 1/60 sec. To achieve a dreamy effect use a low ISO setting e.g. 100 and a shallow depth of field e.g. 5.6 and throw the focus in the background. Using textures in clothes and materials will produce better results and effects like this one can be easily achieved.    

Indoor light- The background only needs to be some material or some card and if you are using a black background then you don't need to light it. Place the model in dark plain clothes and light the face and body. Remember to meter the face and not the background, as you want this to remain dark and not turn grey. 

Natural light - Depending on what time of day it is the light will produce different effects. Shooting portraits on an overcast day produces even tones as this image illustrates. If you want heavy shadows shoot on a sunny day however this type of light can be tricky to and can emphasise facial features in an unflattering manner so for beginners is worth staying clear off.

Flash photography - In colour photography a bright flash can produce unflattering skin tones and emphasise blemishes and spots in the skin however when switched to black and white then these imperfections disappear. This is why many people prefer to have their portrait taken in the monochrome medium as it is much more flattering. 
 

Abstract, pattern and architecture

In abstract and architectural photography colour can sometimes distract from the structure of a building or the form and shape of an object. Switching to the monochrome medium can make a huge difference and produce a greater overall impact.

When shooting in this style of photography concentrate on shapes and composition. Lines and pattern will also play a key role in the image, as these elements lead the eye around the image. As discussed previously the Ansel Adams zone system is something to be aware of as tones and contrast still apply and exposure values will read differently.

Other elements to consider are vantage point and angle of lens. Using a wide-angle lens e.g. 24mm is the preferable choice for architectural photography. A fish eye lens can also produce effective results in this medium producing abstract images.
 

Add a splash of colour

Adding colour to a black and white image will produce effective results. Bright colours such as red and orange appear particularly striking against the monochrome background. Carefully consider appropriate subject matter and try to have the colour part central in the image. The example shown here really brings out the pattern in the butterfly wings as the green in the full colour version distracts from the butterfly. This simple and effective technique can be easily achieved using basic editing software.

Composition and shapes

Abstract black and white photography is all about looking for shapes and using composition to your advantage. Unlike landscape photography where detail is important, black and white architectural photography relies on shapes and structure to enhance subject matter. Large areas of block tones and contrast are easier to use to your advantage in this area.

From below - From this angle shapes become more abstract. Try playing around with composition considering what will be seen in the foreground and background. Filling the frame and coming in close to statues/objects makes for a more interesting shot as can be seen here.

From above - The cityscape skyline is the perfect setting for the black and white medium. For this type of image use a narrow depth of field e.g. F.22 and a low ISO number e.g. under 200, as high detail with no grain is essential for the full impact. When editing turn up the contrast in the image so the difference between the blacks and whites is more extreme.

Tips from professional photographer - John Godwin

I have been shooting digitally for a couple of years. I have no particular background in photography and my first experience with a camera was when I purchased one to take product shots for a clothing company I was starting. People kept saying I had an eye for photography, so I decided to take up it up instead. 18 months on and I'm now making my living from it.

Website: http://www.john-godwin.co.uk

Email: mail@john-godwin.co.uk

Tip 1: Don't settle for an overall exposure.

Using Photoshop choose the lasso tool and make selections around key points in the shot. You can use the feather tool to make a smooth transition between the selected and unselected parts. Alter the exposure slider to adjust the value of your selection up or down. Do this for all areas until you have a more uniform exposure that retains detail in the shadows and highlights.

Tip 2: Don't worry too much about high ISO

When shooting in colour, high ISO can often ruin a shot. High levels of noise can degrade quality and ruin the atmosphere. Noise is less apparent in monotone shots, and more often than not, a little extra noise can create a film-like grain that gives a gritty texture to the picture.

Tip 3: Concentrate on subject matter and composition

A black and white image can convey the raw emotion of a picture far better than a colour photograph as colour can distract the viewer and take away from the subject matter. For this reason, pay extra attention when shooting in black and white and make sure your image contains a clear meaning.

 

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