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The Essential guide to Lenses

The Essential guide to Lenses

Macro, telephoto and wide angle all explained

The lens is one of the most important elements of the camera as it determines the sharpness, focal length and overall effect of an image. The right choice of lens at the precise moment can make a significant difference to the impact of the shot. However, for many a lack of technical knowledge in this area is a problem, as there are a numerous amount of lenses on the market all intended for different purposes. For the novice photographer the choice can feel overwhelming so this month DCE takes you through the essential basic guide to digital lenses.

This feature covers all aspects including lens terminology and equipment from macro, telephoto, zoom to wide-angle lenses. Learn about changing lenses, focal length, focusing and how to clean and keep your equipment in tiptop condition. Feel confident when shooting with the right type of lens in any given situation.  

The art of macro photography- Capture the magic of spring using macro photography.

For abstract and close up imagery then macro photography is one of the most effective ways of shooting. There are many lenses on the market designed specifically for taking these types of images with most accompanying a ratio of 1:1. This means that objects/subject matter can be photographed at a much finer detail then the standard lens.

Macro photography is ideal for capturing a range of subject matter and there are inspirational images everywhere to be captured. Flowers, insects, leaves, patterns and texture are all objects/elements to look out for when selecting appropriate shots.

For the novice photographer choosing objects that remain still such as flowers and plants are much easier to practice on. After the basic skills have been learnt advancing to moving matter such as insects and water splashes is possible. For rainy days household objects such as cutlery or anything with an interesting surface is a great way producing abstract imagery. With macro photography anything goes.

Top tips

Generally in macro photography it is best to use a plain background as this emphasises the subject in the foreground framing it in the shot.

Capturing action in macro photography can be tricky and is best to do after some practice on still objects. To achieve a goiod shot one a continuous shutter speed is essential. When using this setting remember to shoot at full resolution, as you do not want to loose quality.   

Giving the subject matter context makes for a more interesting image. As the flower is the only part of the image that is not moving you can predict and set the focus point before the subject has landed. 

A shot can be predicted with a little patience and some knowledge. A lot of insects follow a pattern of flying so try to position your camera in front of a plant or flower that gets a lot of interest. Then it’s just a case of letting the nature come to you.

Focusing and macro -Four steps to capturing the perfect macro image

1. Choose your subject

Think about your light source and how this is going to affect your image. For macro photography then natural light is one of the easiest resources to utilise. If shooting a still life subject then manoeuvre your body out of the light source so there are no dramatic shadows. The light should be flat so the image can pick up lots of detail.

2. Set up your composition

Obviously for a macro composition the angle is going to be tight. Try taking a few angles coming in to the subject as this gives more options when editing. Depending on what equipment you have will also determine how close up you can get. 

3. Set your focus

For Macro photography then a sharp focus is crucial however at close distances the auto focus setting can be tricky to use. If there is little movement in your shot it is best to practice using the manual focus and take it in and out of focus as you will be able to observe when it is crisp.

4. Get the right exposure

As there is little depth of field in macro photography you need to set your camera to a narrow aperture. Turn the aperture up to the highest f-stop possible e.g. F22 and set the ISO to a low number e.g. ISO 100. Remember to use a tripod, as at these settings the camera will meter a long exposure time. 

The essential basics -All you need to know about looking after your lenses.

Changing a lens

To remove a lens from a camera body there is a button situated at the front which needs to be pressed and the lens will swivel anti-clockwise and unlock. To attach a lens the red dot on the body needs to be lined up with the red dot on the lens and then it can be locked clockwise into place.

Top tip for changing a lens
 
Remember once the lens has been detached the body is vulnerable so try to avoid dusty environments. It is best to change your lens in a clean and dry setting however if dust does get inside it can be cleaned. Visible dust do excellent home sensor cleaning kits.

Keeping your lens clean

A lens cloth is a must have accessory for any photographer as dirt on the lens is one of the main factors that reduces image quality. A brush can also be used which is effective for removing dry pieces of dust.  You can also try using a UV or polarizing filter as this will protect the end of your lens and will enhance images taken in daylight.

Macro Lenses -All you need to know about macro photography equipment.

There are many different lens manufacturers on the market and which brand to purchase will depend on your camera and budget. Here are a few basic tips for getting started. For product photography and small objects a 50–60mm range is the best choice and a 90–105mm range is ideal for capturing insects, flowers and small objects. A 150–200mm provides additional working distance and is typically used for insects and other small animals. A few zooms lenses do provide a macro option, however they generally do not allow a 1:1 magnification so the results are not so detailed.

The macro lens

If macro photography is your area of interest then a good macro lens is a great investment, as it will produce controlled results. The standard macro lens has a ratio of 1:1 and picks up fine detail producing higher quality imagery at a shallower depth of field. This means you can use a faster shutter speed then compared to a standard lens with a macro setting.  

Extension tubes

For the photographer who takes an interest in this area but cannot afford an expensive macro lens an extension tube can be used. The tube is mounted onto the camera body and then the lens onto the tube. What this essentially does is allow the standard lens to focus closer then it normally can. This method generally does not produce as high-quality results as a macro lens however it is a good second and cheaper option.

Macro Flash

For night time and lowlight shots then a fill in flash is a must have accessory for the macro photographer. The key to achieving well-lit shots is not to overpower the subject matter but enhance it. Try to diffuse the flash by covering the unit with a translucent material or bounce the flash against a piece of card.

Telephoto and zoom lenses

Telephoto and zoom lenses mean far distant subject matter can easily be captured. They are ideal for sport, wildlife photography or even landscape photography when you want to isolate one element.  Being able to get in close to subject matter with out physically being there yourself means you can capture some special moments.

There are problems that accommodate these types of lenses, for example camera shake, which is when the image appears blurred due to too much movement in the lens at full zoom. The rule of thumb to eliminate camera shake is you should be shooting at a shutter speed at or above the effective focal length of your lens. For example if you have a lens that is 50mm 1/60th is fast enough however if you have a 200mm lens you’ll want to shoot around 1/250 to compensate for the length of the zoom.

Another problem that comes with zoom and telephoto lenses is weight as generally they are not the lightest of products. For the novice photographer a standard zoom like a 70-300mm lens is ideal or if you require a wide-angle lens the 18-200mm is a great choice. Anything over these distances and the lens starts to become very heavy and expensive due to the amount of glass needed to construct it.

35mm

At the widest angle the surrounding scenery has been captured. The wide-angle lens (turn to next page to see more details) is the ideal choice for landscape photography.

50mm

At 50mm the subject matter begins to become isolated however this is still a wide-angle and for many is sufficient for landscape photography.

70mm

At this angle the subject matter is close up and detail can be captured. As the zoom is quite long it may be easier to use the auto focus setting on a shot such as this one.

200mm

At full zoom the shutter speed and ISO need to be increased to avoid image shake and a tripod or monopod can be a useful accessory.

Focal distance- The focal length of your subject

Focal length is the distance from the centre of the convex element on the lens to the focal point of the object/subject. The focus and focal distance work in conjunction with each other. For example, if you have a point that is x distance away then the focus will be sharp at a certain point. If you move further away the focus needs to be adjusted to correct the distance. This can be mathematically worked out and is called the hyperfocal distance.   

Pick your focal point

After you have composed your image you need to select the point of focus, which is called the focal point. If you are zooming into one object/person then this is where you need to make sure the focus is crisp. If you are photographing people/animals it is important to make sure their faces are in focus.

Telephoto/ zoom lenses- Get in close to the action with a zoom lens

Zoom and telephoto lenses come in an array of sizes and specifications and depending your needs will determine which one to purchase. A zoom lens with a focal length ranging from 100 mm to 400 mm may be described as a 4:1 or 4x zoom. The standard kit lens that comes with most DSLRs is an 18-55mm zoom lens. Long zoom lenses are very expensive as there are many components needed to make up the lens. The heaviest telephoto lens ever constructed was by Carl Zeiss and had a focal length of 1700mm and weighed 256 kg. Now that is getting in close!

How a lens is constructed

There are many different design constructions for a zoom lens with the more complex systems incorporating up to 30 elements however the example here shows the basic principle. They consist of a number of individual pieces that are either fixed or slide along the body of the lens.

Look after your equipment

If a lens is dropped or heavily knocked then the components can de-align which is problematic. The image will look as if it is focused when you look though the viewfinder however it is not. If you drop your lens by accident always check the results on the LCD straight after you have taken the shot to see if the focus is sharp. 

Keeping steady

A tripod is a useful accessory to own however there are restrictions when using it that can be frustrating if trying to capture action. A monopod is the perfect accessory with the zoom or telephoto lens as it provides the user with stability as well as flexibility.

Long zoom lens -Up close and personal

A fixed long-zoom lens is different from a zoom lens with the advantage being they produce clearer results as there are less moving parts. Due to this factor they are also lighter and are popular with sport photographers and the most common type of lens that they will use is a 400mm f/2.8. This means that when the aperture is open at the widest (i.e. a shallow depth of field) a fast shutter speed can be applied to capture action.

Unlike macro photography where a narrow depth of field is preferable, for action photography a shallow dof will produce superior results. Setting the aperture to f2.8 throws the background out of focus hence isolating the subject and also allows for more light to enter through the lens meaning it is easier to focus.

Wide angle lenses

Perfect for landscape or architectural photography the wide-angle lens is the photographer’s best friend. For most people the option of using one of these lenses with a full frame model is not an option as these types of cameras are very expensive however this is where you can achieve fantastic results. This is because the camera will give you 100% coverage with no crop factor if you use the right lens.

For the novice photographer the temptation of using a standard zoom lens is more appealing however the fixed wide-angle lens can be highly beneficial for learning about composition. The fixed point forces the user to physically move around hence thinking more about the shot and a top tip to follow when it comes to shooting is less is more. It is better to take fewer images that are of a higher quality that have been considerably composed and exposed correctly then take hundreds of shots that are no good. Using a tripod can also be a good way of practicing this approach, as it will slow you down.  

Lens Hood

Depending on what type of lens you have will determine what type of lens hood to should use. An incorrect fit will produce dark corners in the frame of your shot. For lenses that cover a wide-angle range, a flower-shaped lens hood is best to use. If you are unsure what will type you need take your camera to your local photography shop and make sure you test the lens on the widest angle and at full zoom.

How a lens hood helps

Come rain or shine a lens hood can be great accessory for any photographer. In the sunshine it will help eliminate lens glare, which is where a streak of light runs across the image. In the rain a lens hood can be useful to stop water running down the front, as this will ruin the shot and causing problems with focusing.

Composition -Get it right first time

When shooting at a wide angle your composition is even more crucial as there is more to include in the frame and there are many rules that can be followed. Composition comes down to practice and thinking about the elements in the frame and how they are going to work together before taking the shot.

Wide-angle lenses -Get the full picture with a wide-angle lens

Longer lenses magnify the subject where as wide-angle lenses magnify the distance between objects, which in turn allows for a greater depth of field. If you are using a wide-angle lens to photograph a building from below at ground level it will look as if the building is falling backwards. This is because the wide-angle lens is allowing for more subject matter to be included in the frame. A wide-angle lens will have a focal length of between 22-28mm where as an ultra wide-angle lens has a focal length between 14mm- 21mm.

Wide-angle

The wide-angle lens is also useful for photographing interiors where there is little space to manoeuvre. If you have a wide angle of 14mm and you are stood in the corner of a room most of the space will be in shot. The wide-angle lens is also useful for portrait group shots when you need to squeeze a lot of people in.

Shift and Tilt lens

If you are photographing a building from below and want the wide angle but don’t want any distortion a shift lens can be used. This is where the angle of the lens can be adjusted from the camera meaning the building or subject appears parallel. This type of lens is expensive and should only be considered by those who take architectural photography seriously. 

Wide angle fish eye

A fish eye lens can be an effective way of producing abstract hemispherical images. Landscape photographers shooting broad sceneries can use this lens to their advantage as it emphasises the curvature of the earth. The fish eye lens has a focal length of 6mm and at this length will produce as close as possible 360-degree image. 

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